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    KELLY * S CALIFORNIA .. An Excurs ' on to California over the Prairies , Rocky Mountains , and Great Sierra Nevada . With a Stroll through the Digaini and Ranches of that Country . By William Kelly , J . P . 2 voW . Chapman and Hall . ( Second Notice . ) In returning to these spirited volumes for more extract , the only difficulty is where to stop , and what to omit . Here is a peep into THE GAMBLING-HOUSES . " But . the establishments that commanded the largest and steadiest trade , and where the circulating medium beat with the strongest pulsatisn , were the pandemoniums , which were crowded morning , noon , and night , and certainly with the most mixed and motley congregations I ever before witnessedwhites , half-castes , copper , mahogany , and blacksdelegates from every nation that takes any part or interest jin the commerce or intercourse of the world , their features more varied than their colours , and their costumes representing the fashions of their several countries . The jargon of voices , mutters ,

    and exclamations of those votaries of fortune , made a most strange medley of sounds , and you could pretty well discover the various national characteristics of the players in the progress of the game ; the cool indifference of the Russian or the Turk , the latter placidly stroking his beard under the frowns of the fickle goddess ; while the Frenchman at his elbow was sibilating his sacres , and the Yankee opposite cursing and thumping the table with boisterous vehemence ; Paddy down at the end consoling himself with the philosophic reflection , that the worse luck now the better again '— Come my hearties , send round the ball—a faint heart never won a fair ladyhurroo ; ' the cloaked Spaniard and the phlegmatic

    German laying down their stakes mechanically from the outside ; the Scotch chiel poking in his head from the same region , just so see how the chances ran ' afore he risked his siller ; ' while Italians smoked and hummed , and Chinese looked as innocent as if tricks were no part of their training . All the new-comers staked coin , the miners dust , some of them putting down large purses at a single venture , exclaiming , 'Now for it—home or the diggins ? ' ' The diggins by Heaven ! ' as the president raked the bag into the infernal coffers ; and up got the miner to go dig another fortune , and again to have it charmed from his grasp . " A GLIMFSB AT SACRAMENTO . " There was one peculiarity about the city , then containing about 10 , 000 souls , that could not fail striking a stranger immediately , which was the total absence of women and children . Native Californians were constantly coming to and fro , galloping , as is always their custom , at full speed , even through the most crowded thoroughfares ; hut they manage their horses with admirable skill , and can rein them ¦ up in an instant , from the tremendous severity of their bits . Numbers , too , of the native Indians

    were constantly strolling about , too idle to hire themselves out , even at the high rates offered , engaged in groups , gambling , not with cards , but a kind of thimble-rig , in which one man takes a small ball , and , after shuffling his hands , so as to puzzle the sight , then holds them out for the parties to guess in which the ball is , each taking their turns at hiding it . I was greatly amused standing over them as they were squatted under a large tree at the end of ono of the main streets , swaying their bodies about and gruntiug during the progress of the game . ' . '

    DON T SIjKEP IN A FORESAIL . " We weighed anchor by moonlight with a fine breeze ; but just aswe hove in stays on our first tack , we had reached on to a bank , getting fast aground , and , as the tide rose , kept thumping and drifting for some hours . Although the sea did not run very high , our situation was attended with danger , as our bark was one of those frail craft got up hurriedly to meet the demand for river navigation , and was neither timbered , fastened , or found substantially , without even a kedge on board to bouse her off . However , as the wind sets steadily from the same point from Februnry till October , we

    knew sho would forge in the same direction all night , and probably stagger into deep water ere morning ' s tide . The air was very sharp , but sleep or comfort was not to be obtained , for flhe would be awhile on her larboard beam-end , bumping and thumping , then suddenly rising on even keel in deeper water , iis suddenly fill down on lur starboard beam , huddling p isseng < -rs , furniture , and all odds and ends in the cabin into a kaleidoscopic heap , inflier . iii !* several serious cuts , wounds , and bruises .

    The deck wus altogether unsafe , for the bulwarks were ho low they afforded no protection from a sharp list . ; but uh her sails w'ere lowered and not furled , I bethought mo Unit , probably tho bug of the foresail might afford a tolerable hammock . So crawling forward during an interregnum , I made fast the boom of it securely , and , dropping myself down , was hooii . swayed into a profound sleep , which was broken in upon in the middle of tho night by the noise of the crew and tho shouting of the captain to hoiBt the 8 ailn . I could not . insturnlv bring to mind my

    situation , and made no effort to arise till I found the canvas sl ipping sensibly in folds from under me , and the b"om swinging violently , when I became conscious of my situation and danger , roaring with might and main without making myself heard . I then endeavoured to get upright , but every lift of the sail upset me , and as it was fast getting chock up , I felt the peril of my position : grasping at the reef-points , two of which I got hold of , and , being in the second row , they just enabled me to reach my toes to the boom ; however , as I was to leeward , the bagging of

    the sail to a stiff breeze made my hold very insecure and fearfully dangerous , being wholly unperceived in the dark , and the vessel going free , full eight knots . I tried again to attract attention , but my efforts were drowned by the rushing of the waters and the whistling of the wind through the cordage . My hold and footing now got more difficult and uncertain , rendering me dreadfully nervous and exhausted . Just as I was about abandoning all hopes , the man at the helm , Buffering her to take a yaw to leeward , the sail jibed , and , as it passed over the deck , I dropped down almost in a state of insensibility . "

    Mr . Kelly ' s experience of the Indians is very various . He finds them squalid , degraded , noble , generous , treacherous , base , cowardly , revengeful . His chapters are enlivened by many episodes of Indian friendship and Indian warfare . We will quote one : — " "W e pitched our tents on a high bank overhanging the ford of the river , from which we had under our gaze a large Indian village below it , on the opposite side ; there was a sort of half-shaded dell near our camp , where we drove the animals , the grass being tall , but cf the tinge and nature of old hay ; however , for want of better , they eat it with a good appetite . "We were not well settled when a party of Indian visitors waited opon usgood-looking fellows , and well-limbed : they both

    talked , and understood a little Spanish , promising us fish , and giving us all assurances of friendship , which , nevertheless , they soon after attempted to betray . Two of our party , having gone out in pursuit of deer , parted company , each attended b y a few Indians , who , the moment D . discharged his rifle , seized hold of it by the barrel , endeavouring at the same time to pinion him and extract his bowie-knife from the sheath : he was fortunate , however , in having a revolver in his belt , with which he soon put them to rout , the savage who wrested the rifle from him dropping it in his flight . The other deerstalker did not happen to meet any game , and consequently escaped with his rifle and his scalp , for had he had occasion to shoot he might probably have been minus both , not having any side-arms .

    " Some short time after our men returned to camp , the chief and his squaw , with four attendants , approached , evidently with the intention of explaining away the affair , and apolog zing for his subjects' conduct ; but we resolved they should not come again into our quarters . So I went forward , beckoning them back in rather an angry mood , at which I could see the old potentate was nettled , but , like a good tactitian , who understood and appreciated the seductive influences of female interposition , he brought forward his royal partner , both making soothing and conciliatory gestures . However , by an unusual effort , my duty overcame my gallantry , and I resisted

    the soft blandishments , repeating my repulsive motions with a growl in the unknown tongues ; upon which the old chief flared up with great rage and savage dignity , rushing forward a few steps , and shouting out , in a voice of madness , "Arra , arra , arra ! " at the same time swinging the back of his hand very violently towards us , which one of our friends understood was tantamount to warning us off his territory in the most peremptory manner . He then retired , and we had sufficient light to see , when ho returned to the village , that he mustered all his men around him , gesticulating violently , all looking in the direction cf our camp .

    " I felt so satisfied they would attack us before morning , that I arranged a general watch of all hanas for the night , carrying all the arms we could stick around our persons , which we previously shot off , for the double purpose of loading them anew and letting the enemy know the strength of our armoury . Between rifles , revolvers , double and single-barrelled pistols , and double-shot gnus , we enmu up to the formidable number of fifty-three discharges—a pretty fair amount for a cohort six strong , which produced a very warlike effect , fired in quick but regular hucccHHion . We then picketed our horses in a crescent form , hemming in the oxen between them and the steep blink , on the edge of which stood the waggon , distributing ourselves at equal intervals , inarching and counter-marching , without exchanging a word for a few bourn , or being able to notice any strange

    or hostile movement . " At length the uneasiness of one of the horses put us upon the alert , and the next moment some arrows whizzed pust us , upon which Mr . S e fired a load of buck shot in the direction he supposed them to come- from , which elicited a perfect shower , ono taking effect in his shoulder , others wounding three of jho oxon and one of the horses . Tho di » charg «

    was followed by a quick movement , rendered audible by the crushing of dried leaves and branches , which guided us , in some measurp , in our aims , as we fired one round ; soon after which all noise was hushed for the night . Mr . S- « e ' s wound was slight and superficial ; but there was one of the oxen rendered unfit for present use , thus reducing our team to two yoke . We could not ascertain if we wounded or killed any of the assailants , as , if at all possible , they carry off their dead to prevent their being scalped , which next after death they are most fearful of . But when morning broke we saw them mustered in all their forces on the bank above the ford ; from which position , I suppose , they calculated to intercept our crossing and enjoy perfect security , while we would be altogether exposed to their arrows and missiles .

    " Their numbers , as closely as we could compute them , were from ninety to one hundred—rather an overmatch for six ; but our fire-arms counted largely , the balance ; for had we hesitated or wavered in the least , it would have given those savages a confidence which might have completed our destruction before we could check it . So , after a very early and simple in our favour ; and our prompt determination turned breakfast , we commenced preparations as if nothing occurred , or nothing was apprehended , another and I going to the edge of the bank , with two rifles of the

    largest calibre , that would carry well over to our opponents—a distance of five hundred yards—which I believe they conceived impossible ; for when I raised my gun to cause them to retire , they set up a hideous yell of derision , which was soon lulled by the fall of one of them . My companion , an excellent marksman , also fired , and hit the chief , who reeled , but did not fall ; after which a hurried and general movement in retreat took place , that stayed us from repeating our discharges , showing them all we required was a free and unmolested passage .

    " After some little delay in tending their wounded , they planted themselves in about equal numbers on the tops of their huts , which are formed by excavating the earth in a circular form , about twelve feet in diameter and four feet deep , then bending over them , in a semiglobularform , stout saplings , and binding and twining them closely with vine tendrils , over which they put a coating of adhesive clay , that renders them impervious to rain , an opening large enough to admit of entrance in a crawling posture being left in the side , on a level with the ground . In external shape they resemble a mound ; consequently , at a distance , the village had the appearance of a number of little tumuli , and ihe Indians on their crowns , armed with all their primitive weapons , produced a strange picture , entirely in

    keeping with the locality . Ihey took up their position with a quiet but determined air , showing they were resolved to repel our apprehended assault , and defend their ' household gods' to the death . As soon as we observed their determination , my companion and I crossed over , leaving two others in our old position , and under cover of our guns the waggon commenced crossing—a task of doubtful completion , owing to the steepness of the banks , the crippling of our team , and the absence of manual assistance , as we were otherwise employed ; however , after a multitude of pauses , and a large expenditure of wattles , the thing was accomplished , and our inarch continued , with all our arms in requisition , having for despatch made cartridges for all our guns and rifles .

    " As we receded from the village the Indians descended , but did not attempt following ; nevertheless , we bore in mind the rule of Indian retribution , which is two lives for one , and resolved to keep a vigilant look-out while in their territory . It . is a deplorable circumstance that , even after the offending party have passed on , they satiate their unquenchable revenge on the first white-skin they catch in their power , which often hurries an innocent and unsuspecting victim to a premature death . "

    The hardships undergone by Mr . Kelly and his companions are something terrible even to read of ; but the moment they were passed the elastic spirits of the adventurers converted them into pleasurable reminiscenses . We shall close our fragmentary notice of this Excursion by a passage which recals the famous shipwreck in Don Juan . " By a very early start we calculated on renehing the river in one day , and did accomplish it , a few hours after sunset , accompanied most attentively by a deluge of rain . We brought the men on the opposite bank to hail , by discharging our rifles , but they

    declined attempting the ferry until morning ; . so wo had no shift but to sit down supperless in the teaming torrents ; nnd when morning came , we found the riv « r had risen far beyond any of its former limits , still rising and roaring with terrific import , tho heavens sending down their liquid contents in actual streams , giving rise to u feeling of nervousnesa » t tho idea of crossing in a crank little canoe ; but men NtippcrlcNs over night , shaking in sosked clothes , and with oxtru stowage for breakfast , were satisfied : to risk a little in getting to coinfortablequarterB . Rowover , we were soon relieved from all anxiety about our personal safety , by tho information that no on «

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    May 24 , 1851 . ] ff !) £ 3 L * && £ ?« . 401

• Citation
  • Leader (1850-1860), May 24, 1851, page 491, in the Nineteenth-Century Serials Edition (2008; 2018) ncse-os.kdl.kcl.ac.uk/periodicals/l/issues/vm2-ncseproduct1884/page/15/