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    1022 THE LEADER, [Saturday ,

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    " Perhaps the most remarkable and charac...

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    Vim,A(,'|<; Llfi: In I'Uiyl't. Vil/Agii ...

    committing the same blunder that is incessantly committed by European politicians—the blunder , namely , of supposing that you can anticipate political growth , is indicated in the following passage : — " Any one ' versed in the internal history of Egypt during the government of Mohammed Ali must know that his great mistake , or rather his great crime , was , that he endeavoured at any sacrifice to force the country into a resemblance with the E uropean states , whose military power he envied and whose praises he coveted , lie levied armies and launched navies , and introduced manufactures , and undertook public works ; and every step he took spread disaster , and misery , and death , through the population . For these things were not the natural product of the rising prosperity of the country . To bring them about he was compelled to lay on taxes of unexampled severity , which nearly extinguished all motive to exertion in the fellahs , and rapidly reduced their numbers . It is to be regretted that he

    had not a taste for building pyramids . He might have caused equal misery , but there would have been something to show for the money . His armies have been devoured by fire and sword ; his fleets have rotted in the port ; his fortifications are still unarmed ; his manufactories are for the most part abandoned to rats and spiders ; and the Barrage , at length suspected to be a great mistake , will probably never be finished . What Egypt wants is a gradual emancipation of the fellahs , the destruction of the system of forced labour . Its people are remarkably acquisitive and naturally industrious . Let them alone , and they will soon find the way to prosperity , and make railroads for themselves when necessary . In the meantime , if English capitalists could obtain permission to spend about a million sterling in their own way in improving the communication between Alexandria and Cairo , it would be very convenient for Indian travellers , and would not only be temporarily beneficial to the fellahs , but might lead to a permanent improvement in their condition . "

    But there is little politics in Mr . St . John ' s volumes , and the absence only renders them more agreeable . He touches the subject occasionally , but only in passing , as be touches many other subjects , including hieroglyphics , and the pretensions of " learned Thebans" to decipher them—pretensions which excite his profound scepticism . Let us , with his aid , catch a few glimpses of Egyptian life . Here is one of the appearance of the fellah women : — " The fellaha women wear a blue skirt , of the same form with that of the men , but somewhat longer and of more transparent materials ; so that if they were particularly squeamish they would shrink from passing between a stranger and the light . Over their heads they throw a mantle , either of the same stuff or else of checked linen : and one corner , kept in position by hands or teeth , serves to veil

    two-thirds of the face , leaving one eye , often the only one , uncovered . Generally speaking , they are without ornaments ; but some wear necklaces or collars of thick wire , bracelets and anklets , ear-rings and nose-rings ; also coins hanging down beween the eyes when they have a burko , or face-veil . They tattoo the forehead , lips , and various parts of the face , as well as the arms ; and a blue star often attracts the eye to where the opening in front reveals all the unelaborateness of the costume of these deep-bosomed beauties . This practice of tattooing , generally followed by the women and by many of the men , is condemned as sinful by rigid Muslims ; and Derwecsh used often to regret that his arms had been thus disfigured when a child . The operation is performed , not without incantations , by the gipsy women , who pretend thereby to preserve children from innumerable imaginary disorders .

    "' There is something massive about the beauty of Egyptian countrywomen . Iheir faces are of a short oval , like that of the young Bacchus . The expression of their eyes , which have space to tlevelope their voluptuous outline , crushed slightly , as in the case of the men , by a heavy lid and long lashes , is often stiffened , if I may so speak , by the black border of kohl . It would be difficult , however , to imagine more beautiful eyes than those that sometimes flash upon you in the villages . There is a promise of heaven in them ; often belied , however , by the earthly reality of the full pouting lips of swarthy red . Kxeept that in some of the larger curves fhero is too great an evidence of muscle , iind that fhe breasts arc early wearied with child-feeding , no forms can surpass those of the fellfihas . Parisian hotlines never confined such exquisite fee ( , ; and those hands that dabble in cow-dung would , in Europe , bo caressed all dny bv lovers , and startle ( he artist as the revelation of his long-sought

    ideal . " Kings Cophetuas , prone to love beggar-maids , are not of everyday occurrence ; and / have rarely found people to sympathize with me in my admiration of these dirfy Venuses . For if , must be confessed they are as dirty as their occupations make < hem . Not fhat they have any . special fondness for iilth ; for they wash flieir persons daily , and their clothes as often as might be cxpecfed , considering that they rarely possess a change . Hut , in spite of ( . heir efforts , they art ; always begrimed more or less ; in id f lie odour of fhe dye used in their garments is so repulsive , ( hat only travellers possessed of cosmopolitan nostrils can venture , to approach them . *

    " If , is worthy of remiirk , that nothing is more rare than respectable-looking old age among fellaha women . They all shrivel early into hags . Neither is there any beautiful childhood of either sex ; and it , is really wonderful that , the miserable pot-bellied creatures , covered with dirt , and sores , and Hies , which crawl about the dunghills of the villages , should grow up into line hearty young men und charming maidens . " I lere is anof her of Till' : I'MO A NT <> K TIIK V IN > I'll I ! T .

    " Kor many days previous to the festival , preparations are ; made on a . grand scale . The most , remarkable feature is the kayini , a row of four tall masts , kept steady by : i complicated system of rigging . < ) n these , in irregular order , arehung clusters of lamps , each contributed l > y some pious person , and generally forming a splendid illumination . Heyond are pitched two long rows of ( cuts , of various dimensions , and on the third night of the month these are occupied by derweeshes of all classes , who at oner begin flieir performances under tho eyes of the public ; for the tents are all open , and lighted ' with more or less brilliancy . The ; spectators are numerous , and appenr deeply interested , muttering occasionally pious ejaculations , intermingled , it . is ( rue , with somewhat crude compliments and jests addressed to the high-bosomed virgins who come out . lo be hustled on that solemn occasion .

    " II , is : in hour after minuet . I ; e ( , us stroll down the street , of tents , beginning nt the northern extremity . As we approach the kayini , a I liousnnd cross-light n enable us to distinguish a hcii of moving furbaJlH and I iirbooshcM . In various directions , Hashing through the trees , torches mid lanterns , und string of lumps hung

    upon poles , , / are seen approaching ,- and by the drumming and the shoutineknow that parties of derweeshes are on their way to take up their position for ih * night . Once in the crowd , our progress is slow ; but strange sights occupy i ) eye on either hand . Here is a small tent , dimly lighted , in which two or th enthusiasts are bobbing tip and down with frightful agility . There is a second ^ which , already fatigued , others are crouching beneath cloaks and blanke ts , sweati ^ off the excess of their devotion . Beyond , in a lar ger establish ment ,- brilliant ^ illuminated with a wooden chandelier , some thirty worthies are preparing for ^ renewed performance . Let us pause and watch them . They all sit in a circl * chatting on indifferent subjects , with the exception of one , a white-bearded gen tl ^ man , who stands in the centre , apparently absorbed in contemplation . Suddenly " lie feels the spirit move , and begins to chant , in a low , measured voice , the prais e of the Creator . The audience at once becomes silent arid collected , drinkino- h religious intoxication in large draughts . They soon feel its effect , but know how to subject it to rule . With one sway , every head turns slowl y to the right , and then , wheeling round , looks over the left shoulder . ' Al-lah . ! ' One syllable of tho

    name of God , pronounced in an undertone at first , accompanies each move ment Back goes the head to the right ; ' Al— ' then to the left , lah ! Al-lah ! Al-lali ' Al-lah ! Al-lah ! ' As the chant of the white-bearded gentleman becomes mor e animated , the hearers seem to grow more impassioned , and soon every head rolls with frightful rapidity . It is a wonder the ballast does not shift . ' Allah ! ' If has become almost a grunt , a prolonged howl . The excitement grows too powerful to allow them to remain squatting on the ground . Up they start , still wagging their heads ; the grunting waxing fast and furious . Their features writhe with excitement : their eyes roll deliriously . Some of them drop oft' their turbans and caps , and frantically shake their shaven crowns , still howlin g the name of God with foaming lips . There is a void in the ranks . A man has fallen in this furious charge for Paradise . Some one takes him by the heels and drags him into a corner of the tent , to pass his fit in peace ; and on goes this extraordinary prayer , the motion having now become a duck forward , in which the nose nearl y touches the knees ; whilst ' Allah ! ' is jerked out almost as one syllable , and seems to proceed , not from the lips , but the stomach . "

    1022 The Leader, [Saturday ,

    1022 THE LEADER , [ Saturday ,

    " Perhaps The Most Remarkable And Charac...

    " Perhaps the most remarkable and characteristic scene I have ever beheld was the Doseh , or Trampling , which takes place during the Festival of the Prophet by day . It is peculiar , I believe , to Cairo , and is a kind of ordeal to which the derweeshes and others subject themselves , in order to demonstrate the purity of their lives . A common opinion among the sceptical is , that the whole is a piece of juggling ; and when I went to witness it , therefore , I determined to watch most csirefully . " I took up my station near the principal tent of the derweeshes , and waited

    patiently for the appointed hour . Many thousands of people were assembled , some occupying the summit of a great wall , others the branches of trees , others the house-tops , and the remainder crowding amidst the tents to the imminent danger of their stability . A few women and lads had managed to set up stalls here and there for the sale of oranges , sweetmeats , and sherbet—refreshments not unacceptable , as the day was hot and dusty . The time we had to wait seemed very long ; and we began to fear that the ceremony had been put olf . However , at last , by the ant-like movements and growing excitement of the crowd , we learned that the important moment was approaching .

    " After about ten minutes of unusual animation we saw , coming from the direction of the Iron Gate , a , number of Hags , principally green , and inscribed with letters from the Koran . Their bearers , jn'eceded by clubmen , soon succeeded m piercing through the crowd , and forming an alley about six feet wide , in the front line of which I was fortunate enough to get . The Hags were still tluttering in . sight , when a long column of young derweeshes , two and two , holding one to the other , and those behind with their hands on the shoulders of those before , came rushing down the alley . As they passed they swayed like one man from side to side , uttering in a deep , gasping tone , the word 'Allah ! ' The eyes of some were closed ; . but others glared frightfully . All were very pale , and perspired profusely . They seemed intoxicated , and were so ; some by fanaticism , others by hashish , Most wore libdehs , or pointed felt caps ; some tarbooshes ; none turbans . They passed too rapidly to enable me to count them ; but they must have been above

    two hundred in number . " I could not see either end of the columns , when they stopped , and , without more ado , threw themselves flat on their faces , side by side , forming a human pavement to the lane . Several individuals , with official hustle , now began running to and fro , arranging a . shoulder here , an arm there , a leg further on ; and ascertaining that no spaces were left between the sides of the paving-men . These ; all tint time kept up a kind of convulsive twitching motion throughout their bodies , : iii < rubbed their noses violently in the dust , from side to side / us they grunted iortlJ h

    filename of God in more awfully bestial accents , as the moment of trial drew mg . "The spectators generally seemed actuated by breathless curiosity ; but I noticei with pleasure , that one of them snatched up " a child , not more than ten or ( ' 1 (! V ( I 1 years old , and forced him to make way for a lad of about fifteen . I was '" . > " intensely excited , and could easily understand the impulse by which several believing bystanders were prompted to join the victims . At , length a murmur , that increased to : i shout , arose , and was followed by a ( had silence . There was an < ; ig ( forward movement of the crowd . We of the front rank nearly lost our footing ; « ' « a , scene of unpremeditated murderous trampling seemed on the point ol ( akijigp •»¦ ' horse

    " What followed was the work of an instant . A stout man , on a powerful pieccded , supported , and followed by about a dozen attendants , moved wit ' •' quick , lively walk , over fhe bodies of the prostrate derweeshes . There u : is juggling in ' the case ; . Kvory one of flu ) victims received ( lie I read about fhe sm <^ of the back ; and some of ( ' hem threw up their heads and feel , as if the vt'' " ' ^ had been crushed out of them . Away rode fhe Sheikh ; ami Hie friends i : n < l rc ^ tioiw of fhe performers rushed forward to snatch them up , anil whisper in ' cars ' U'dhcii ; fhuf is , ' Declare the unify of God . Some of the poor wivtrlM ^ . though half insensible , murmured the ' response with bleeding or foaming l V ^ Many of them were ; in an undisguised swoon , and lay senseless and g hastly ; <> >' ^ responded with groans . Their general appearance was ( hat of drunken men : ¦ * from under the wheels of n carriage . " .

    . , Me . St . . John enlivens his volumes with fil > iiiitl ; iu « : o of cli : irncten . s i < - anecdotes mid Hfories . Hcnd l-his : — TO I'lCKHONN ABOUT TO MAHRY . ^ ^ . ^ "The follah , named Ilaroun , said that when he ciime of age to liml T T ~ u was when tlio burber ' a wife began , to throw dute- « Lones at him from bchmd u

• Citation
  • Leader (1850-1860), Oct. 23, 1852, page 18, in the Nineteenth-Century Serials Edition (2008; 2018) ncse-os.kdl.kcl.ac.uk/periodicals/l/issues/cld_23101852/page/18/