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Leader (1850-1860), 20th September 1856, Edition 2 of 2, Page 3, September 20,1856.] THE LEADER, 391

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      September 20,1856.] The Leader, 391

      September 20 , 1856 . ] THE LEADER , 391

      The Gorokation Of The Czar. Jjsother Ins...

      THE GOROKATION OF THE CZAR . Jjsother instance of Mr . William Russell's asto ^ nishing pow « r 6 of description is presented in the account , published in the rimes of Wednesday , of the act of crowning the Czar at Moscow ; for the former Crimean correspondent is the present " Coronation " chronicler . In the one day succeeding the Sunday on . which tne ceremonial took place ( September 7 th ) , Mj . Russell produced an account of that bewilderingly splendid scene which amounts to eight columns and a lialf- of the journal for which it was written , and which is so singularly vivid and brilliant that the Times of the same day devotes its first leading article to an elaborate and eloquent eulogy of the acliievement . For ourselves , we must be content with a selection , but we have given the larger part . The writer enters the Hall of St . Andrew in the Kremlin , and finds a crowd of persons at the upper end at one side of a small table : — " They are feasting their eyes on the crown , the sceptre , and the globe , which will . be used presently in the great ceremony of the day . The only praise that can . be given to diamonds belongs to those in the crown —they are very big and very bright . The down is a cluster of Koli-i-noors , and there is a wreath of diamonds in . the form of oak leaves around it -which is dazzling as the sun himself . Many of these brilliants are of the size of pistol-balls of the good old duelling diameter . As to the sceptre , there is a tip to it formed of' a famous diamond , which one is almost afraid to talk about . I really would not venture to state how large it seems to be , and shall content myself by saying that this is the precious stone for which . Catherine II . gave nearly 80 , 000 ? . and a large pension for life to a runaway slave . ( JVide every storybook . ) In two long lines , from door to door of the Hall of St . Andrew and of the Hall of St . George , are drawn up the Grenadiers of the Palace , the veterans of the great war . To me those fine old soldiers were more interesting aud attractive than all the display of riches and the blaze of gold and silver around and above us . Their dress recalled tie days of those Titanic struggles which shook all Europe . The huge bearskin cap , with -white tassels and gilt cords , the ample broad-chested coatee and cross-belt , and the white pantaloons with many buttons at the outer side from the knee to the foot , reminded one of the time when Kutasoff , and Blucher , and Murat , and Wellington were the heroes of fast-recurring battles . These men are \ picked from various regiments , -with some regard per- haps to size , but certainly with undoubted claims on the score of service , for there is not one of them who does not bear five or six ribands and crosses , or medals , on his breast . As you walk along that-wall of soldiers , it is jiifficult to believe that they have lived under three emperors , and have fought against the great Napoleon . They are all in perfect preservation . The only thing to betray old age is a certain stiffness about the knee , and tliose implacable , and iu vincible , and inevitable wrinkles which will come upon us as records of bo many lustres . The hair is jet black , the moustache is lustrous and dark as the boot -which was wont to affright thejelhue of our boyhood , and the whiskers—for old Russia wore whiskers—are of the same line polish . The surprise into ¦ which you may be thrown at such evidences of juvenility on the part of men who have seen the horrors of the Beresina , aui who beheld Murat turn his back at Yarosl & vitz , is removed , however , when you see that the veteran Who touches his moustache blackens the fingers of his glove ; he has had his hair dyed , just as his boots have been polished—for effect . Some of f | tese veterans are historical monuments— some have served under Suvaroff . ' at Ismail and in Italy—others have marched triumphantly into Paris—others foavo crossed the Balkan with Diebitselu' Of all their numerous decorations these veterans seem to prize the Paris medal and riband the most , and tliey point to it with great pride , though it Langs amid memorials of tremendous battle-fields . " In the alleys formed between these soldiers and in the intervals between the rear of the line and the sides of the hall , moved the most gorgeous crowd that it ia possible to fancy—an over shifting play of colour , changing like some rich web shot with various hues , in which green , gold , and silver predominate . The Casques of the officers , surmounted witli long tricolored plumbs—yellow , "black , and white—of cocks' feathers , are well suited for effect , whatever way they arc worn , and insido the halls , as they were borne on tlio owners' arras , those plumes fluttered or drooped graceful ^ over the polished s teel 01 silver of the headpiece ; the IIoralda-at-Arms strutted about in lemon-coloured long boots with gilt spurs , dashed doublets of cloth of gold , and tabaTds emblazoned with the arms of the empire , and Spanish hose , sc delightfully chivalresquo and crusader-like , that I wai quite angry with one of them who suddenly came fortl to destroy my delusions by means of a pair of mild-looking spectacles , through which ho surveyed the gay crow * with a thorough Pickwickian expression of countenance But thero jiro realitios Uero that cannot be destroyed 8 ' easily . In a quiot group , beside a golden pillar , ther stands Cortachakoff , whoso name will bo over associate with that masterly retreat which deprived Franco nn England of half their triumph . When last the writ * saw that great gaunt figure , it was stalking up the aisl ¦

      | of St . Paul ' s at the funeral of our great Duke . Since ai then years—and a few months which brought with them ai such cares as years seldom know—have bowed down his p < figure , and have wrinkled that broad , high brow . The tt Prince is covered with orders , crosses , and ribands ; stars G of diamonds glitter on his breast ; but there is an air of C gravity ' and . care about him which shows that'these cc honours have not been lightly bought . " vi Prince Men 6 chikoff ^ the n aval officer Biruleff , si Todtleben , leaders , and others , were standing close tfc by , and af " Amid these warriors and statesmen ladies in full h « court dress are pressing towards tbe inner apartments of in the palace , Tadiant with diamonds , for the display of fr which the Muscovite head-dress now in vogue is peca- di liarly adapted . This consists of a high circlet or coronet L < of satin velvet or cloth , which encompasses the top « f b ( the head , and is studded with precious stones . Persians , qi iu high black sheepskin caps , and rich loose dresses of Si the finest silk , and gossamer shawls—fiat-faced Tartar oi deputies , wild delegates from the further shores of the m Caspian , Georgians , Circassians , Abasses , Tcherkesses , ol Mingrelians , Uralians , Mongols , Gourians , Daghesta- P nees , KooTds , Lapps , Kalmucks , Cossacks—mingling si with Russians , French , English , Spaniards , RomanB , A Greeks , Austrians , Prussians , Saxons , Danes—here was a : an epitome of the Asiatic and European , races , all in n their finest bravery , liungling together in the narrow ts compass of two grand halls . From the Hall of St . v Andrew the doors on one side lead to the fine promenade h which is formed on the top of the first story of the c facade of the Imperial Palace . As we stepped out on a this esplanade a sight such as can neither be described s nor forgotten met the eye . It was yet early—about u half-past six o ' clock ; the sun shining--from the left t lighted up the gilt domes and vanes of the Kremlin and a tliose of the churches on the right of the picture with a e rich orange flame , that seemed to die aw & y or gather t fresh vividness as the vapours of the morning rolled up r more densely from the river , or thinned away before the o fickle breeze . The view is bounded by the Kremlin « n s the left , and on the right by the buildings of the palace , a at the end of the facade . Below the spectator there is I the carriage-way , outside the palace , already thronged c with spectators of the lower classes and masses of 1 Boldiery . This way is on the verge of the plateau on o which the Kremlin stands , ov « r the course of tie c Moskowa . Nearer to the river there is another broad p path , close to the outer wall which surrounds the ancient a fortress and . overlooks the stream , and already the artil- I leiymen are standing by the guns mounted on one of the o old Gothic forts which break the lines of the crenelated g wall . The people are here also- —their faces turned ' up t [ to the white walls of the palace . At the other side of c I the river , which is about two hundred yards across , there 1 is another walk lined with houses—a veritable quay , on < ¦ which men and women and children are standing in " i ! groups , looking towards the Kremlin . Behind this lane 1 | of houses opens out the city like some great sea ; the t ! houses are almost hidden by the thick haze of Russian i ! autumn , but above it for many miles , in every possible I I shape , cupola , turret , dome , spire , cross , minaret , rise to J greet tlie sun , and reflect his rays from their gilded sur- e faces . Tie fog , half-smoke , half-vapour , is tinged with i many colours as it rolls amid this forest of glittering t spires and domes , and the vast mosaic of variegated £ cloud , roofs , and housetops . i " But Iiark ! There once again is the old familiar j voice of the Russian cannon!—a flash of fire spurts i from an embrasure below , and tbe thick white smoke < rushes into the air . Thank Heaven , the dull roar of the j iron messenger of death is not heard again , but , instead j of that angry voice , the bells of the Church of the Assumption ring out merrily , and at the signal "the ' thousand bells of Moscow take up tho chorus . It ia seven o ' clock . The echoes of the cannon shake the old Kremlin twenty-one times in rapid succession . This ia the signal for the various persons engaged in the ceremonial to repair to the places indicated in tho programme and ordre dujour . There is a perceptible movement among the uniforms , and , turning to the left , wo come out upon tho end of the perron rouyc , or Kraenoi Kriltzo , at which there is placed the canopy beneath which the Emperor and Empress will march to the Church of the Assumption . It is of orange-coloured cloth of gold , embroidered with Imperial eagles , and is held up fcy sixteen wands of silver gilt , ornamented with yellow , l ) lack , and white ribands . On the hangings arc embroidered the Emperor's cipher , surmounted by a ¦ crown , surrounded with the order of St . Andrew . It ia surmounted with sixteen aigrettes of tricolored ostrich L feathers , and is embroidered with tho arms of the empire , , as well as those of Kazan , Astrakhan , Poland , Siberia , - Taiiris , Rieff , Vladimir , Novgorod , Finland , and other > devices . All theso aud many more details do I quote on 3 the authority of tho great work by the Master of the 3 Ceremonies ; for indeed to mo all is gold that glitters , - and in tlio general impression produced by the sight of 3 such things one ransacks the memory in vain for the :. component parts which pleased him . o ' « What a scene there , is in that court below ! — an as-« scmblage of parasols , bonnets , helmets , coats , shawls , all d of tho gayeflt hues . At the foot of tho staircase there is < 1 one large raised stand full of people—there is also a sr gallery on tho right-hand aide from the palace to tlie Ic church , full of people—before tia all the church belfries I are the ing by Let of of a p a of : s l i s s l s > i ; . ' > * ¦ > I 3 s a i a - - - o ) i b c d is h -o a to h B ( » i 3 r 'a ie fi , of io s " . [ ie ca

      are fall of people , and the court is thronged also . There two streams of people , in uniforms and court dresses , pouring up and down from the palace to the court . By dais there is foT the present only an escort of the Grenadiers a Cheval , under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Fanehawe , a nephew of our stout Admiral who commanded the Bailing squadron at the great naval jeview at Spithead some years ago . At ' present , the silver batons are upheld by private soldiers OBtly , and . they evidently regard it as a most solemn and'sacred affair . Every one who passes to and fro uncovers fcis head . Passing through the crowd along the upper land-, over a rich scarlet cloth , we come again to the door which we first entered the palace . The old Grenadiers ate still standing as rigid and steady as before . us go in again , and turn to the right , passing between , a wall of soldiers . Let us enter the banqueting-hall . Surely here are the riches of the world ! Such a glare of gold plate , such a wild profusion goblets , vases , cups , salvers , heaped on tables , massed on sideboards or carved stands along the walls this glittering room ! This is the Granovitaya Palata , the Hall of- the Ancient Tsars ( for so the Russians spell the word in French ) . Can it be described ? . Assuredly not by the pen , nor by the pencil of any artist "but one who can dip his brush in the hues of tae rainbow . The low many-arched Toof of tbe hall is sustained , by a huge square pillar in the centre , round which is placed a platform -with receding ledges to the height of nine or ten feet , each ledge groaning with aa- : ' cient -vases and disbes in gold and silver . Some of these are of the quaintest form and most curious . workmanship—models of old castles and palaces , strange animals , battle-pieces , "birds—craftily worked , in pastoen- ; turies by forgotten descendants of Tubal Cain , and each museum in itself . On the right hand of the hall , on entering , there is a "buffet which seems crushed beneath the masses of gold vessels upon it , each a study , but « nriched , above all , by the grand cup from Benvenuto ' s own land , for which Russia paid the sum of " 10 , 0 O 0 F . sterling . On the left , there is an estrade forthe orchestra and the singers , among whom are Lablache , Dumeric , Bosio , Calzolari , and Tagliafico . It is covered with cramoisied purple velvet , with gold fringes and borders . The Imperial throne is placed at the end , of the room , opposite the buffet on the right-hand side . Three steps , covered , with gold-embroidered purple velvet , lead to 1 he latform on which the throne is placed . Above there ie canopy , with an imp & riale of cloth of gold covered with Imperial eagles , with , a crown in the centre on a cushion velvet and cloth of gold , with fringes and acorns of gold , shot with yellow , black , and white . The edge of the top of the canopy is carved and gilt , and in the centre is a shield with the Imperial cipher , with-the Imperial crown above , encompassed by the collar of th * order of St . Andrew . At each side are smaller shields , with the collar of St . Andrew around tkom , richly emblazoned , and all three are draped with Imperial standards . At the endsr of the top of the canopy there are aigrettes of ostrich plumesj dyed yellow , white , and black . Beneath , at the back of the throne , is displayed the Imperial mantle of ermine , with the Arms of the empire in a golden lorder in the centre , and the Imperial cipher profusely emblazoned on it . The edges of the steps of the platform are ornament od with large salvers and goblets of gold , " on pedestals of malachite and gold ; the throe ancient thrones of the Czars , are placed beneath the canopy , and on the left there is a table for the crown , sceptre , and globe , covered with crimson velvet embroidered with gold , and a clotli of gold "beneath it . There is a table at the steps to tba platform , which is to be borne up to tlie thrones when the banquet commences by three of tlie High Chamtarlains of the Empire . Ou the left of the pillar are placed two tables extending the whole length of the room , for tho guests . These are weighed down likewise with gold and silver plates , goblets , plateaux , epergnea , and salvers . The chairs , of white and gold , with crintBoa velvet seats , arc placed at tlie . left sides of the tables only , so that all the guests will liave their faces turned , tcwards their Majesties . Such are the glories of the banquct-room of the Czar . ' " Just a minuto or two before nine o ' clock there is a groat commotion among the people , who are closely packed in this outer court , and the gendarmes riding gently through them make a lane for the first carriage of the French Embassy . It comes up right gorgeously —running footmeu , bewigged coachman , grand chaseour , —a regular glass coach , all gold hangings . Tho horses and harness aro unexceptionable ; but it is rathor atartling to hoar in the Kremlin a vigorous interpellation addressed from the dignitary on tho box to the leading palefrcnier , 'Now , then , Bill I why the don ' t you leave the osses' ' oda balonc ? ' The reply ia lost in Ituesian cries of ' attention' along tbe line aa Count de Moray descends from hie carriage and steps on the estradc , where he is received by a High Chamberlain in waiting . His Excellency is , drcasod de riffwettr , and ie really a well-appointed , ' fine-looking gentleman , ' as our great Pondennia would say . " The carriages of the ladies and gentlemen attached to the En gliah Embassy follo-w . " And now , amid a little battalion of bareheaded running footmen , a very fine old coach , with a poor team of horses , drives up , and from it descends—wliat is

  • Citation
    • Leader (1850-1860), Sept. 20, 1856, page 3, in the Nineteenth-Century Serials Edition (2008; 2018) ncse-os.kdl.kcl.ac.uk/periodicals/l/issues/cld_20091856/page/3/