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Leader (1850-1860), 14th July 1855, Edition 2 of 2, Page 19, raffias <»as;&srs&-3s aa-ssis^iDS&^paq&s...

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      Jrax 14, 1855.] The Leabeb, 679 ¦

      Jrax 14 , 1855 . ] THE LEABEB , 679 ¦

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      T*U =Hnuld Do Ourutmoat To Encourage The...

      t * u = hnuld do ourutmoat to encourage the Beautiful , for the UssfuL encourages We 3 aouiu i * itself : —Goethe .

      Raffias <»As;&Srs&-3s Aa-Ssis^Ids&^Paq&S...

      raffias <» as ;& srs & -3 s aa-ssis ^ iDS &^ paq & sro TEXTILE FABRICS—WOOLLENS AND WORSTEDS . According to the system of classification adopted by the Imperial Coramission , Class 20 of Group VI . is subdivided into 14 Sections : — 1 . -Articles used in the Wo alien Manufacture . 2 . Raw Wools , Furs , and Hair . S Prepared and dyed Wools , Fnrs , and Hair . ¦ 4 Yarn , single or twisted ; raw or bleached ; with or without mixture of cotton , silk , or floss silk . 5 Fabrics made of carded Wool , fulled . ' »] Fabrics made of carded Wool , not fulled , or very slightly . 7 ! ^ abries made of combed Wool . ¦ -8 * Fabrics of combed or carded Wool , mixed with cotton or flax . ' « . Fabrics of combed or carded Wool , mixed with silk or floss silk . 10 . Printed Fabrics of combed or carded Wool , pure or mixed . ; ' Fur Fabrics , pore or mixed . -12 . 'Woollen Shawls . < 13 . Gachemire Shawls . 1 * 4 . Hair Fabrics . According to the first edition of the Catalogue , this branch of industry is represented at the Exposition by L 026 exhibitors ; of whom France and her Sovinces supply 519 , Prussia 157 , Austria 147 , Great Britain and Ireland , 92 Belgium 30 , Spain 24 , Saxony 24 , and Wurtemburg , Baden , Bavaria , Switzerland , Denmark , Greece , the Hanseatic Towns , Mexico , the Netherlands , the Papal States , and the Duchies of Tuscany , Saxe-Weimar Hesse and Luxembourg , the remainder . At the Great Exhibition of lfiol not more than 600 exhibitors illustrated this branch ; but then England supplied 476 exhibitors , instead of tlie comparatively small number ot 92 . it should also be observed that the number of exhibitors belonging to this class exceeds that of the Cottou-manufacturers by more than one-half , and the disproportion was still greater at the Great Exhibition of 1851 . The cause of this is obvious . Woollen manufactures are of wider extent than cotton . As a rule , the cotton manufacture is restricted to a few centres of industry , where all the operations can be carried on within a limited space . Capital , cheap land and building , machinery , cheap labour , an easy transit for the raw material from the cotton-growing countries , and of the manufactured article to a good market—such are the circumstances which must exist together before the cotton manufacture can be earned onto any oreat extent f and when these are found , all the operations may be , and Generally are , collected within a few large factories or working phalansteries . f $ ut with the woollen trade this is not so . Wool grows every where Cat least everywhere where there are sheep ) , and although spinning and the prelimiiwiry operations are now generally performed wholesale in factories , yet ws avingT fulling , and the delicate processes of manufacture into first-rate SothaFe , and probably ever will be , executed separately , and in small quantities at a time , in the cottages or ateliers of the workpeople . Another reason may possibly be thft cotton is , after all , but a very modem material ; but wool and liax have been in use from the most remote antiquity . ¦ France has enjoyed a long celebrity for the excellence of both its woollen and worsted fabrics . It is important that the distinction betweea these should be understood . Worsted stuffs are made from combed wool , and contoin therefore only the long staple : woollen stuffs are made of carded * obl , contain only the short staple , and are fulled . In certain processes a , JSlas in certain sorts of stufT , the French manufacturers have established JSecTded superiority over the rest of the world . The scieutihc researches ofBerthoUe £ Chaptal , and Chevreul have given them the best dyes , and m ntuZm and designing they are uot to be surpassed . Ihe softness dura-Kv ^ Ld lustre of their double-twilled merinos are the _ wonder aud envy

      otfiBradford . France can , indeed , boast of men among its woollen manufecturers whose labours have influenced the world , just as , Cwwnptoii > and Hargreaves revolutionised the cotton trade The celebrated chenu . t OberEunpf founded a factory at Jouy , near Versailles , in 17 o 9 , "bcie he made immense strides in the art of dyeing 111 madder colours . That factoiy Tnow hi existence . It was at Amiens , later on , that Bonvtilct first printed WoUeus in relief , and there are Bonvalots in the trade at Amiens now It * MuuS . Collie . ' , of Paris , who first invented the wool-combmg machine , iSich was patented afterward * in England about 1827 , under the name o Sokn £ of Salford ; and we believe we are right in « ssertuig that m France first was mule-apua yarn used in the manufacture ol tie imest moslinXlaines-an improvement which the Yorkshire ™)*<™ £ ™™ wneruUy arrogate to themselves . Lastly , to give some idea ot th < cxtci t Of the woollen manufacture in France , it is an undoubted fact , dosp . ite . tlie great extent of the silk trade , tluit more hands are employed upon woollen Iftftu upon any other branch of textiles- . * , * In France , as elsewhere , each manufacturing town has its speciality , an hikfi Exposition it has evidently been the huuoI each exhibitor to . upo . t foe credit of his town for the fabrics upon which it prides itsell . XU \ vuu * u > ¦ « ot « d : for , every variety of worsted fabrics , and about thirty exhibitors h »> o wnfcrlved to . make a uiugnifieeuL display of choice uannels , merino * , slmwls watencias , bolivars , tartuSs , and uiixed fabrics , bedan ( m the Ardennes ) is Celebrated for line broadcloths ; indeed , some ol the best black cloth made flomes'froin this district . The » tf « plny from hence , although contributed by only seventeen exhibitors , is the finest cloth scries in the hxpositiqu . teedan produces Also capital beavers , et hoc genus cwuu ; strong cloth lor the troops aufl'the marine , and mixed fabrics . ir , mthe south of France , Carcassonne , Mazannct , Castros , Lodcve , IJc . da-3 « u ,,. SatntJPont and Clermont , are famous for common cloth , and ho . e . it frA . feJfroaok army i 3 clothed , and that the coarse s ntts reguirad for « W gt ** vt export trade tothe Uwttt * re nwnuUcfcured . Xtoae ftbrws are

      H , . - ¦^^^^^^^¦¦^^^^ not so celebrated for their fineness as for their cheapness and relative durability . At Lodeve ( in the Herault ) alone , more than four thousand hands are employed almost exclusively upon military cloth . This speciality of the place has grown out of the circumstance that the mountains in the neighbourhood give a hardy pasturage to the sheep , and the wool therefore becomes short and strong . Another happy accident for Lodeve is that the waters are peculiarly favourable in producing a good and durable blue dye . Of military cloth the-display of Vitalis fibres of Lodeve is of tlie first excellence . At Bedarieux , where , however , the woollen manufactures are very varied , the specialities are cloth for ladies' habits ( called draps d ' amazonc ) , and for those caps ( casquettes ) which are the national head-gear of the French onvriers . It is said that to make these caps no less than 250 , 000 pieces of eloth are annually required . Here also are made vast quantities of goods for the Levant , as the names of the fabrics ( Draps Stamboul , mahout , et serail ) import . The great industrial district of the north of France sends about ninety exhibitors . Tourcoing , Lille , and Roubaix are the capitals of this French Lancashire . The general nature of the trade here resembles that of Bradford and Halifax : at Tourcoing especially there is an immense consumption of English , Belgian , and Australian wool , goats' hair , silk , and alpaca . Flannels , woollen damasks , and merinos of high excellence , are also made h f * T * f The department of the Upper Rhine is well represented by Mulhouse and Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines . Dyed woollens , damasks , and brocatelles form the staple of the trade . Bischwiller , on the Lower Rhine , sends an ample and splendid * collection of . fine cloth . Elbeuf ( Seine-Inferieure ) sends an immense and varied collection . Indeed , it would be difficult to say what woollen fabric is not made at Elbeuf . Louviers supplies it with yarn I ' aris itself has more than seventy exhibitors , who make up a large and varied - collection . If Paris have a speciality in the woollen trade , it is _ those beautiful cachemires , which vie with the richest products of the Indian loom . Some of the specimens exhibited are of rare magni 6 cence , and if it were not invidious to select from so much excellence , we should be inclined to < nve the palm to the display of Bietry et fils , of Paris and Vdlepreux The case exhibited by these manufacturers contains a pattern for a shawl , which was selected by the Empress Eugenie out of a competitive collection submitted to her critical eye . With commendable generosity , Messrs Bietry give the name of the designers ( Berrus fibres ) , and are contented simply to call themselves the manufacturers . Vienne ( Isere ) has some choTce 7 dyed woollen yams for tapestry Vire ( Calvados , , sends choice broadcloths , beavers , & c . Romorantfn ( Loir-et-Cher ) , good cloth , especially some very choice covering for billiard-tables From St . Quentm are exhibited very fine alpacas and ° bareges ; from Orleans , specimens of excellent furniture stuffs ; and from Aubusson and Beau ™ , ^ J ^ S . *« beauty and excellence of which are too noted to need comment here , buch are the broad outlines of the French collection From the province o £ Oran eight Algerine manufacturers send a very creditable display of haiek and burnous cloth , shawls , stuffs for tents and for the clothing of the horse . From Constantine ( another province of Algeria ) sixteen manufacturers send a " ThT Pru ^ collection , though ranking second for the number of exhibitors , is rather remarkable for its variety than for any high . ex ^ llence m manufacture . The kingdom of Saxon not being <*^/** " * JJl * " *{* general head of the Zollverein ( as at the Great Exhibition of 1851 ) , the most remarkable feature is the cheapness of its goods for the export trade to AmerTca There are , indeed , some good blacks from Rhenish-Prues . a of whie A ^ a-Chapelle , Elberfield , and " Cologne are the industrial capitals ; So butkskins ; and a great variety of mixed fabrics for overcoats , trousers , & * From Silesia ( Sagan , Grunberg , andGoerlitz , principal towns ) some fine cloths of delicate texture , technically called zephyrs appear ; and Braadebourg has a varied and useful collection . Berlin sends some good ^ "itme d-imifsks and also some very strong and excellent shawls . Ihe Prussian nvmufac tm-ers make a sort of dufVel , or frieze , of undyed wool , much kked for ove ^ it Ta n ^ -hunting- costumes . It is called natvr-grau , and combines IS 1 ? ™ 7 l Jl litv a singular power of throwing off stains . Many

      manu-, f-iotim > rs exhibit « -ood specimens of this iabric . . Mow than on £ thirdof the exhibitors who make up this Austrian collectio . are fVom INIoravia , of which Briiun is the industrial capital Here , fs n \ Russia Sle fabrics are of a middling class , and the processes of manu-Scture aw rnSty those which have long become antiquated m England and FrancS ^ fe consequence is , that the Austrian eloth , although durable and niaXtf « ood wool lacks that surface and finish which characterise the ££ ; >^ :-jit ^ . r . xrs , isSi , is-ig t ^^ t ^ s ^^ '^ - ^ -Ssx ^ •¦ sKsSSssssaSfS :: i . Tr is ^ Js a ^ fSSi = SSS £ ¦&¦ £ = ^ m = the eyes of the world at this great nnt . ona co «« ° ^ ^ ^ VbSt broadcloth world-lamed West ol England , noted Joi' P ^ ^ f ? ^ < . owb ri , l ^ , 11 umKs only six exhibitoryippeari four ^« ^ ni I o « ^ > mRl their colleotious consist of mixed good ,, \ ^ "V ' ^ , \ 7 and Messrs . Co ., « , f Devizes , aeiid some fine clotlia made ^""^" oO . tor which that Anslks of Stroud , are tlie only exponents of ^« ^^ o SjnoWnhampton , town is so justly celebrated fiastmgton , S 10 nehoubo an-a i ^ q £ Chippeulmm , Melksham , Froiue , and Iwertcn ( j H » °£ LJflde housc 3 have JSngltuid manufacture ) , are entirely "y ^^ " ^ ,, . Bradford haa only been more enterprising , and are hurlj rc P ^ J Jtt « mios ,. Q « ttal » orgs , Ma-. Xitus . Salt to illustrate ita numeuso iauoy u « u

  • Citation
    • Leader (1850-1860), July 14, 1855, page 19, in the Nineteenth-Century Serials Edition (2008; 2018) ncse-os.kdl.kcl.ac.uk/periodicals/l/issues/cld_14071855/page/19/